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Find the Real Zanzibar in the South East

Updated: May 22


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Zanzibar. Just the name conjures up images of idyllic beaches, swaying palms, and the scent of spices in the air. And while this Tanzanian archipelago is indeed a paradise, it's also a place of fascinating contrasts. This small island packs a punch when it comes to regional differences, and trust me, not all parts are created equal when it comes to experiencing the real Zanzibar.


Now, don't get me wrong, I understand the allure of those glossy brochures showcasing the resorts of Nungwi, Kendwa, and Kiwengwa. But let's be honest, folks. If you're traveling halfway across the world to find a carbon copy of a tourist trap, a concrete compound that could be anywhere, then you're missing the point. I genuinely scratch my head wondering why people would bypass the unique soul of Zanzibar for something so… generic.


And it's not just the scenery. Imagine jetting off to the "Spice Island" – yes, that's its actual nickname! – only to lock yourself into an All-Inclusive resort and dine on the same predictable dishes you could find at your local chain restaurant back home. You're literally surrounded by incredible, authentic cuisine, bursting with flavors you've never experienced, and you choose… that? It's like going to Italy and only eating pizza from a fast-food joint. You're missing out on a huge part of what makes Zanzibar special.


The same goes for excursions. Why sign up for the same tired, mainstream tours that everyone is offering, when you're in a place brimming with unique experiences waiting to be discovered? It’s like going to Paris and only visiting the Eiffel Tower – there’s so much more to explore!


Now, I'm not just talking from a distance here. I've had countless friends and family visit Zanzibar, and we've explored both the well-trodden paths of the north and the more authentic corners of the southeast. And without fail, the unanimous verdict is always the same: the south east is simply better. Nicer. Real. For those who think Nungwi is Zanzibar, let me tell you, you've only scratched the surface. You've missed the heart and soul of this incredible island.


But just to be clear, there are super nice, real Zanzibar places up north as well, but sadly they seem to disapear amongst those aforementioned tourist traps. In a future blog post I will dive into those places to make sure they get their well deserved justice as well.


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Speaking of the north, you might hear some folks raving about the beaches in Kendwa, claiming they are soooo much more beautiful and that you can swim all day without those pesky tides. Let me set the record straight: that's simply not true. While the tides in Nungwi might be slightly less extreme at times, they absolutely exist. It's a natural phenomenon that affects the entire island.


And while we're on the subject of beaches, let's talk about seaweed. Yes, Zanzibar's beaches, including those in the south east, do experience periods of seaweed. This is a natural occurrence and, in fact, seaweed plays an important role in the local ecosystem and livelihoods. Most hotels and resorts are diligent about cleaning the beaches daily, so it's usually not a major issue. But to suggest that seaweed is a problem exclusive to one area is simply inaccurate. The bottom line is, you can absolutely enjoy swimming and the beach life just as much in the south east as anywhere else on the island. If you're curious to learn more about the tides in Zanzibar, be sure to check out my dedicated blog post on the topic!


So, what makes the south east so special? Let me paint you a picture.


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Think of Paje as the lively hub, the beating heart of the southeast. It boasts the highest concentration of shops, restaurants, and bars per square meter on the island. It’s a vibrant spot, buzzing with energy, especially in high season. Now, while Paje is fantastic to have on your doorstep, I wouldn't necessarily recommend it as the base for your entire stay for everyone. It gets very crowded, and the beach, while beautiful, is often dominated by kitesurfers, making it less ideal for leisurely swims. But if you're a true party animal, craving a 24/7 buzz, then Paje might just be your slice of paradise.


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For most of us, the sweet spot lies just a stone's throw away in Jambiani and Bwejuu. These neighboring villages offer a more relaxed and authentic experience, while still providing easy access to all the action in Paje. Both have their own charm and a growing number of fantastic restaurants. Jambiani is currently leading the way in culinary options, but Bwejuu is quickly catching up. My top tip? Aim for accommodation within a 5-10 minute drive from the Paje roundabout in either direction. This ensures you're in a lovely area with that perfect balance of tranquility and accessibility.


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One of the biggest advantages of staying in Jambiani or Bwejuu is the ability to truly immerse yourself in the local way of life. You can wander through the villages, witness daily life unfold, pop into a local shop for a soda, and stumble upon charming restaurants serving up incredible food, all without needing to call a taxi. This is the Zanzibar I fell in love with like so, so many others.


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Here, you'll also get a firsthand look at the unique livelihoods that define the island. Keep an eye out for the seaweed farms, a fascinating sight and a crucial source of income for over 30,000 Zanzibaris. You can watch the fishermen heading out in their traditional ngalawa boats, and see the women diligently dragging their nets in for the day's catch, all while you relax under a makuti roof, sipping on a refreshing drink. This is the authentic rhythm of Zanzibar.


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And the south east isn't just about village life and beautiful beaches. It's also a fantastic base for exploring some of the island's most worthwhile attractions, often in a more ethical and less crowded way than you'll find elsewhere. Forget the highly questionable dolphin tours near Mnemba; here you can find more responsible options. You're also within easy reach of stunning sandbanks, the mysterious mangroves, Jozani Forest (the island's only national park), the chance to swim with turtles in hidden caves, and the breathtaking sunsets at Michamvi, which are truly something special.


And if you want to be a bit "touristy" we have The Rock, the most photographed landmark and restaurant in the whole of Zanzibar, here as well.


It's honestly hard to articulate in words just why the south east of Zanzibar holds such a special place in my heart. It's a feeling, an atmosphere, a connection to the island's true essence. You really need to experience it for yourself to understand. I can say with 100% certainty that you won't regret it.


If you have the time, exploring different areas of Zanzibar is a fantastic idea. But if you want to truly understand the island, to experience its unique culture and beauty beyond the tourist traps, make sure the south east is a significant part of your itinerary. And hey, the weather's pretty great down here compared to the north (read more about the weather in another blog post here).


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So, there you have it. In my humble opinion, you haven't truly experienced Zanzibar until you've explored the magic of the south east. Come and discover the real Zanzibar – you won't be disappointed.


Karibu Zanzibar!


(And yes, all the photos in this article are taken by yours truly in, guess what, the south east of this paradise island)

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Hi and thanks for dropping by!

If this article gave you valuable insights and answers to questions you may have, please share it with your fellow travellers and others that you think could benefit from it.

Every day I sadly read false and misleading information in various Facebook groups, so for me it's a goal to get more people to move away from those highly unreliable sources and get real facts and information. Then they will have a much better experience when visiting this beautiful island.

And don't forget to check out all the other articles here, updates and new ones are added all the time.

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